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Imran Junaidi was a Rock climber and Mountaineer from Islamabad, Pakistan. He is best known for first Pakistani ascent of Malika Parbat (5290m). and a new route on little Trango (5455m) in the Trango group. In 2015 Junaidi along with two other team mates went missing while on an expedition in the Himalayan mountains in Kashmir. A search operation was initiated which ended after about three weeks without any success. Junaidi was 33 years old.

Climbing

Imran Junaidi was a passionate climber. He had been engaged in outdoor pursuits since 1998. Junaidi was the winner of several national level rock climbing competitions and he had exceptional record in mix and rock climbing expeditions.

Competition Records

3rd place at All Pakistan Rock Climbing Competition - 2010 (18+), Jasmine Center Maragalla Hills, 2010
1st place at IMD 2010 Climbing Competition ( 19 + / Open ), Ibex club Islamabad, 2010
2nd place at IMD 2010 Climbing Competition ( Open – Pro/Tech ), Ibex club Islamabad, 2010
1st Place at 5th Pakistan Open Rock Climbing Competition on IWD - 2011 (Professional Difficulty), Jasmine Center Maragalla Hills, 2011
1st Place at Pakistan Day Rock Climbing Competition - 2011 (Speed climbing), Islamabad, 2011
2nd Place at IMD Pakistan Open Climbing Competition - 2011 (18+), Ibex club Islamabad, 2011
In 2014 he took part in an exploratory expedition to find out possibilities of frozen waterfall climbing in the Kaghan valley of Pakistani Himalayas.

Mountaineering

In 2012 he climbed Malika Parbat(5,290 meters) in Kaghan Valley of Pakistan. It is the highest peak of Hazara division and considered to be very technical. Malika parbat is reported to be first climbed by British army officers in 1940. Junaidi attempted it with a Danish climber Jens J. Simonsen(Deputy head of mission at the Danish Embassy in Islamabad). On 27 July 2012 they followed the north ridge to gain the summit.

In July 2014 he successfully climbed "Little Trango", a 5,445 meters granite tower in the Trango group in the Karakoram mountains. On reaching the base camp, he along with his two climbing partners Usman Tariq and Owais Khattak spent three days transporting gear to the high camp at 4,800 meters at the base of the tower. He and Usman started on the southwest side of the formation but reached a dead end and had to traverse right to join the American route on the south face. In total, the duo climbed 250m at 5.10d A0 in two days. Imran Junaidi lead all the nine pitches and they decided to name the route "Eid Mubarak".

Other Activities

Imran Junaidi was one of the founding members of Pakistan Alpine Institute. He also engaged in route setting. He is responsible for some new challenging routes in the Margalla hills near Islamabad which he bolted with John Arran. He also took part in exploration and setting up routes at Chenab Rocks in central Punjab in Oct 2012. He has also engaged in climbing/rescue training, social work and motivational speaking. He is nationwide famous for taking initiatives. He is the pioneer of big wall climbing in Pakistan.

Death

Imran Junaidi was on an expedition in August 2015 with two other climbers Usman Tariq and Khurram Shehzad. They were attempting the 6326 meter Sarwali peak (also called Toshe Ri) in Neelum valley, Azad Kashmir, Pakistan which is a neighbor of the notorious Nanga Parbat massif. On 30 August they established a high camp at 5000m. The next day they were last seen at around 5500m after which communication was lost with the base camp. After continued radio silence base camp manager Awais descended to the nearest town Kel and requested search and rescue on 4 September. A search and rescue was started on 7 September. After about 2–3 weeks the search operation was called off. Judging by the region of the highest camp reached and terrain, falling into a crevice was decided to be the most probable cause of the accident.

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Lt Col Manzoor Hussain (Retd), who has been unanimously elected President of the Alpine Club of Pakistan on 17 October 2010 for next three years is a veteran mountaineer, who was commissioned in Pakistan Army Corps of Engineers in June 1966. He was lured to the high mountains while working on the construction of the famous Karakoram Highway linking Pakistan with China cutting across Himalaya and Karakoram mountain ranges in Hunza sector in 1974. Same year, as a member of the newly established Alpine Club of Pakistan, he accompanied veteran American mountaineers to K-2 to explore its climbing routes from different sides. Later, in 1975, after attending preparatory training on Mt Raineer situated the State of Washington in USA, he joined the 1975 American K-2 Expedition, which however could not succeed on K-2’s Northeast side due to prolonged bad weather. In 1976 he organised and led first Services Expedition under Alpine Club to 6,700 metres high most challenging Paiyu Peak on Baltoro gl and made its first international ascent along with famous Pakistani mountaineer Nazir Sabir. In 1978 he organised and co-led Pak-Japanese Services Expedition to 7,284 metres high Passu peak in Hunza which made its first international ascent. Pakistani summiteers included famous mountaineer Col Sher Khan. In 1979 he conducted several mountaineering courses at Alpine Club Mountaineering Institute situated at Nilt, Gilgit which also included first ever women mountaineering course in Pakistan.

In the winter of 1979 he was seriously injured in a rockslide during the construction of Skardu Road, restricting his active climbing. He was awarded the gallantry award of Tamgha e Basalat for his act of bravery and devotion. However, his physical impairment did not impede his mountaineering passion. In summer 1987 he was part of Pak-Italian survey team which measured the heights of K-2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrums and other peaks situated around Concordia – the famous glacial junction on Baltoro gl. After retiring from Pakistan Army in 1992, he was elected Secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, a position he held till October 2004. During his tenure he gave fresh impetus to the Club and organised several Pakistani expeditions which included first Pakistani expedition to Mt Everest (Tibet China -1997), Nanga Parbat and many other peaks. In 1996 he organised and led the largest Pakistani expedition to 7,284 m high Passu peak which comprised 47 members including women and succeeded in putting 15 members on the summit.

He organised and conducted several mountaineering training courses for the Alpine Club members, Army officers, mountain professional, and students. A keen environmentalist he worked with the Government of the then Northern Areas, IUCN and other agencies in the establishment of Central Karakoram National Park and various other eco-tourism and mountain environment preservation projects including launching of various clean up expeditions to the environmentally endangered Baltoro gl. He has worked on several proposals on waste management in the mountain areas including training of mountain tourism personnel in environment friendly tourism practices. He has been instrumental in conceiving various mountain tourism friendly government policies. During his secretaryship Alpine Club organised meetings of the International and Asian Union of Alpine Associations in 1997, 2001 and 2004 which were participated by a large number of foreign delegates. A keen promoter of mountaineering and mountain tourism in Pakistan he has delivered numerous lectures and presentations both at home and abroad.

Since 2004, he served Alpine Club of Pakistan as its Executive Vice President and has been instrumental in the Club pursuits as he did earlier as Secretary including launching of first women training expedition and training of mountain tourism personnel. An expert on mountain tourism and preservation of mountain environment in his own right, he has participated in several international tourism conferences both at home and abroad. He represented Pakistan in various meetings of the International and Asian Union of Alpine Associations.

Lt Col Manzoor, a graduate in Civil Engineering from Military College of Engineers, Risalpur and a graduate of Command and Staff College, Quetta, is an avid photographer and cinematographer. He shot and produced first ever Pakistani mountaineering documentary of his Paiyu climb in 1976. Later he produced several documentaries on mountaineering and other subjects. Having interest in art and history, he established a Museum for Frontier Works Organisation – his parent organisation. He is a widely travelled person and has visited several countries on more than one occasion, both for official and personal reasons. Countries visited include Australia, Burma, China, Germany, Hong Kong, India, Italy, Japan, Kuwait, Malaysia, New Zealand, Saudi Arabia, Singapore, Thailand, UAE, UK and USA etc.

His sporting family comprises a wife, two sons and a daughter. His wife has keen interest in the outdoor and besides extensively travelling in Karakoram, participated in ACP Passu peak Expedition in 1996. His elder son Kashif Shuja is a famous international squash player who was Pakistan’s national junior champion for few years before migrating to New Zealand and becoming their national champion and top most squash player for the past many years. His younger son is also settled in Australia.

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Qudrat Ali was born 11 September 1969 in Shimshal  village, Hunza–Nagar District district of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. He experienced childhood in the valley and spent his initial years moving in the Alps and became endlessly in love with the mountains. Qudrat Ali is a Pakistani mountaineer. He is also the co-founder and instructor in Shimshal Mountaineering School, and is a member of the Alpine Club.

Qudrat Ali's mountain climbing career started in 1991 when he accompanied Paul Hudson to a peak in Shimshal, he learned the techniques of mountain climbing from him. He successful climbed four 8000ers (Broad Peak (1999), Gasherbrum I(2004) and II(2000) and the Nanga Parbat (2001) out of five in Pakistan. In later years he would join accomplished mountaineer Ralf Dujmovits and alpinist Simone Moro to climb different peaks in Pakistan. In 2001 He made a successful ascent of Nanga Parbat without supplemental oxygen, with Ralf Dujmovits, and Qudrat Ali was the main climber to rise every one of the fourteen crests. He has been part of several challenging expeditions including winter attempts of broad peak twice, in 2008 and 2009.

List of Mountains Climbed

Year

Name of Peak

Height

1991

Mangaligh Sar 

6050m

1995

Chaskin Sar 

6300m

1997

Shofkatin Sar 

5800m

1998

Gasherbrum II 

8035m (Climbed to 7500m)

1999

Broad Peak 

8047m

2000

Gasherbrum II 

8035m

2001

Nanga Parbat 

8125m

2002

Manaslu 

8165m (Climbed to 7700m)

2003

Gasherbrum II 

8035m

2004

Gasherbrum I 

8068m

2005

Nanga Parbat 

8125m

2006

Walyoo Sar 

6030m

2006

K2 

8611m

2006

Mangaligh Sar 

6050m

2007

Khurdopin Pass

5790m

2008

Broad Peak 

8047m

2009

Broad Peak 

8047m

2011

Mangaligh Sar

6050m

2015

Shofkatin Sar

5800m

2017

Khurdopin Pass 

5790m

Awards

2004 - Shield awarded by Government of Pakistan for his summit of Nanga Parbat.
2005 - Best performance in climbing at Mountain Festival, Islamabad. 

Shimshal Mountaineering School

Established formally in 2009 with the support of Simone Moro, Shimshal Mountaineering School is a pioneer in professional mountaineering training institute in Pakistan. A dream project of Qudrat Ali and Shaheen Baig, Shimshal Mountaineering School strives to promote healthy sports and excellence in professional mountaineering through extensive hands-on mountaineering training programs. Led by a team of renowned mountaineering instructors, with treasure of mountaineering experience, Shimshal Mountaineering School has a very customized and tailor-made mountaineering courses to suit the needs of beginners as well as advanced level mountaineers. Located at the heart of Shimshal. Shimshal Mountaineering School is the first ever mountaineering institute in Pakistan which initiated an exclusive mountaineering program for women since its inception. 

Project Climb 4 Peace

Qudrat Ali is undertaking his latest expedition Climb4Peace a five years project with his climbing partner Samiya Rafiq.

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Samiya Rafiq, (born 17 January 1988) is a mountain climber. She is the first female who attempted the highest pass of the Karakoram range called Khurdopin Pass in winter 2016/2017. Born and raised in Saudi Arabia, she spent most of her childhood in outdoor activities such as cycling for miles, and hiking trails with her father. Samiya is also an entrepreneur and a social worker.

Samiya began her climbing activity in the Northern Pakistan, she quit her comfortable city life, and gave everything to the mountaineering; she embarked on a series of mountain adventures. In 2016 she attempted to ascent an unclimbed peak (6200 meter/20,341 ft) in the vicinity of Khurodpin pass. She and Qudrat ali pushed on up through that pass, which is the pass highest in the Karakorum mountain range at 5790 meters (18,996 ft). The expedition began on December 24, 2016 and it wrapped up on January 6, 2017 so it is a brief but tough excursion into the mountains. For Samiya winter survival is staggeringly challenging and tough. She has explored her physical and mental capabilities that urge to explore inwardly, to understand who she is, where her limits lie and how she can live more and become more will never let her stop.

She is currently undertaking her latest expedition Climb4Peace a five years project.

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