Muhammad Ali Sadpara (born in 1977) is a mountaineer and high altitude porter from Sadpara village, Skardu, Pakistan. As of February 2016, he has made six ascents of four 8000m peaks and is best known for first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat. Sadpara is first and the only Pakistani to climb an eight-thousander in winter. He also holds the distinction of record three ascents of Nanga Parbat.
Ali Sadpara began his mountaineering career as a low altitude porter in 2000. Although, started as a mean to earn a living, he soon discovered his love for mountains and climbing. “I always feel happy in the mountains. Since the day
when I got to know about them for the first time and worked as a porter, it has always been my desire to climb them. Now I could make money easily in Sadpara –hometown– or in Skardu –main village in the area–, or even in Islamabad, but I feel happy here (in the mountains).” He told during an interview 2015.
Muhammad Ali Sadpara’s first big mountain assignment came as a high altitude porter for a Korean K2 expedition in 2004. Gasherbrum II was his first eight-thousander, when he reached the top on July 10, 2006 as part of a German team. He went on to climb Nanga Parbat twice in 2008 and 2009, and Gasherbrum I in 2010. He climbed Broad Peak till Foresummit in 2012. (Edit: A previous version mentioned the unconfirmed Broad Peak summit).
Muhammad Ali, however, has also be a major force of multiple winter expeditions. He was part of International Broad Peak expedition (Artur Hajzer - leader, Robert Szymczak and Don Bowie) in 2008/09. In last week of February Don and Ali were in C3, ready for summit-push, but continuous weather forced them to retreat.
In 2010/11, Artur Hajzer returned to the mountain with a larger Polish team. Ali Sadpara was again hired as a HAP. The weather remained challenging throughout the season and summit window arrived only at around mid-March. Despite poor visibility and high wind, Ali Sadpara and Robert Szymczak launched summit push on March 16. They were at around 7830m when an impassable huge crevasse blocked the ascent.
Ali Sadpara was also part of Polish Gasherbrum I expedition in winter 2011/12. He played a pivotal role in establishing three camps, but unfortunately sustained serious frostbite to his toes while setting up C3 and had to abandon the expedition. The team later bagged the first winter ascent of the mountain.
Alex Txikon was prepared to attempt K2 (from Northside) with Denis Urubko and Adam Bielecki in winter 2014/15. However, their climbing permit was revoked just at the start of climbing season. The Bosque climber, hence, arrived at Nanga Parbat Diamir BC with Ali Sadpara. They were later joined by Daniele Nardi. The three climbers reached 7800m during summit push, when a wrong turn led them to a dead end.
On February 26, 2016, Ali Sadpara, Alex Txikon and Simone Moro reached the summit of Nanga Parbat. It was first winter ascent and Ali Sadpara’s record third ascent of the mountain.
- Gasherbrum II (2006)
- Nanga Parbat (2008)
- Nanga Parbat (2009)
- Gasherbrum I (2010)
- Broad Peak Foresummit (2012)
- Nanga Parbat (2016 / first winter ascent)
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