Rajab Shah [Born in early 1950s] is a mountaineer from Shimshal, Hunza-Nagar, Pakistan. He started his mountaineering career as a High Altitude Porter (HAP). In 1998, he became first Pakistani to climb all eight-thousanders [5x8000er] in Pakistan. He achieved this feat without using supplemental Oxygen during climbs. He was honored with President's Pride of Performance Award in the field of Sports in 1993. Shah also appeared in 1991 Mountaineering movie 'K2' as a Balti Porter. Currently, he is an instructor and president of Shimshal Mountaineering School with mission statement, "To promote adventure sports as a profession, disaggregated by gender and sex for the youth of mountain region of Pakistan in a sustainable manner, through boosting professional skills."
Rajab Shah is regarded as a modest, humble and down to earth person. Despite of unparalleled achievements, he is barely known outside Mountaineering circle in Pakistan. He lives in his native town Shimshal and can be reached without appointment. Shimshal is home to several mountaineers and High Altitude Porters (HAP).
Shah was employed as porter on various European or Asiatic expeditions. His prime role was establishment of Camp-I and Camp-II. Out of pleasure, he started climbing above and reached summits. Rajab's first 8000er ascent came in 1989, when he summited Nanga Parbat as a part of German-Pakistani Expedition lead by Ekke Gundelach and Sher Khan. He used a variant of Kinshofer route to reach the top. Later Rajab topped Gasherbrum I twice in 1990 and 1992. In 1992, he reached summit as a porter though his Japanese Mountaineers were unable to top. He stood on top of K2, highest peak in Pakistan, in summer of 1995. Rajab Shah was also a member of 1997 Sino-Pakistan Expedition to Mount Everest. Team remained 200m short of summit, which remains a 'real regret' for Shah. Next year he summited Gasherbrum_II to become first Pakistani to climb all five eight thousanders(K2, Nanga Parbat, G-I, Broad Peak, G-II) in Pakistan.
Rajab summited Mustagh Ata (7546m) as Sirdar (leader of porters) in 2002.
- 1989: Nanga Parbat (8125m)
- 1990: Gasherbrum I (8068m)
- 1992: Gasherbrum I (8068m)
- 1993: Broad Peak (8047m)
- 1995: K-2 (8611m)
- 1998: Gasherbrum II (8035m)
The Photo Gallery