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THE BIOGRAPHY OF A DREAMER
"I am a dreamer in love with the mountains"

Born in Bolzano in 1986, daughter of a well-known Italian ski-mountaineer, she has lived all her life among the mountains. Maybe it is for this reason that inevitably the mountains had such a strong influence in her life, so much so that it became her passion. In 2014 she reached the summit of K2 and became the second Italian woman to do so in the history of alpinism.

"Each moment I spend in the mountains helps me to be increasingly aware of who I am as well as being more grateful towards life."

Ever since she was a young girl, Tamara took part in many different sports, even athletics (she was vice Italian champion twice in discus), but her true passion, mountains, throughout the years has remained unvaried. In 2002 she started ski-mountaineering and took part in her first races. As part of the national team she won important titles: among these she became Italian champion in 2006 and 2008, vice-champion in 2007, she won the Pierra Menta in 2007 and 2008 and the title of world champion on the long distance in 2008.

After this period of ski-mountaineering racing she needed new challenges in the mountains. At the age of 14 she already dreamed of climbing an eight thousand meter peak and had a clear idea on how to go about it. And in 2009, during her first mountaineering experience in Nepal she confirmed to herself that this was the right idea. From then on, things were clear for Tamara: “this is the life I want, nothing else”

RESULTS

RACES, ALPINISM AND SPECIAL PROJECTS

" In my way of living the mountains confrontation with other alpinists is not important as much as the challenge with myself…"

SKI-MOUNTAINEERING RACES FROM 2013
Twice Italian Champion

  • 2008 _ World Champion (under 23)
  • HIGH ALTITUDE ALPINISM FROM 2009
  • 2009 _ Island Peak (6189 m)
  • 2010 _ the youngest woman on Lhotse (23 years old), with oxygen
  • 2010 _ Cho Oyu (8210 m), no summit
  • 2011 _ Khan Tengri (7010 m)
  • 2012 _ Muztgah Ata (7546 m)
  • 2012 _ Broad Peak (8047 m), no summit
  • 2013 _ Pik Lenin (7134 m)
  • 2014 _ K2 (8611 m), without oxygen
  • 2015 _ Winter ascent attempt on Manaslu (8163 m) with Simone Moro. During the acclimatization phase they opened a new route in alpine style on the North face of Island Peak (6182 m) and made the first ascent of Kang Lemo Central (6100 m).
  • ULTRA TRAIL RUNNING RACES SINCE 2013
  • 2013 _ 2° place at the Transalpinerun partnered with Annemarie Gross
  • 2014 _ 1° place at the Transalpinerun partnered with Annemarie Gross

PROGETTI SPECIALI

2013 _ The great crossing - The great crossing – ski-mountaineering traverse in Pakistan with the ascent of two unclimbed peaks with no name (6345 m and 6489 m)

" What am I still able to reach, to what point will I manage to bear the physical and psychological strains? "

MANASLU
HIMALAYA / NEPAL

“What we bring home with us is not a defeat, but a dream to which we gave fuel and energy. With or without a peak it is actions and fantasy which count, not the mere result. This adventure has simply been postponed.”

Manaslu, with its 8.163 meters is the eighth highest summit in the world. The aim of the expedition is to make a modern re-enactment of two great climbs achieved in the past. The first winter ascent of the mountain climbed on the 12 January 1984 by the two Polish climbers Berbeka and Gajewski, as well as the link up of the ascent in succession of the two peaks of Manaslu’s massif: the main summit of 8163 meters and the East Pinnacle, 7992 meters high. This last climb was achieved by the two great Polish alpinists Jerzy Kukuckzka and Artur Haijzer on the 10th November 1986. The second aspect of this 2015 project on Manaslu concerns the link up of the main summit and the East Pinnacle which is 7992 meters high. This double ascent has never been repeated, not even during more favorable seasons, specifically, Manaslu’s East Pinnacle is the planet’s highest 7000 meter point. Only 8 meters separate it from the fateful altitude of 8000 meters.

For now, arrivederci! head back home. We have used up all our patience, our optimism and our abilities, but this year Manaslu remains a dream that we will have to relive some other time. The parenthesis in the Khumbu valley was an expedition inside an expedition. An acclimatization break which lasted 3 weeks, from which two new routes were born as well as the ascent of an unclimbed 6000 meter peak.

An expedition is not simply a matter of pure performance, it is often a game of patience and nerves and I think that Simone and I have done absolutely everything for the weather and the mountain to unveil themselves …During the long wait – which saw nothing change in terms of the weather conditions – we lost a lot of mountaineering gear and spent entire days shoveling snow. Nonetheless surprisingly we kept our spirits high! Now we head back to Italy, where new sporting and mountaineering projects are already ready.

“What we bring home with us is not a defeat, but a dream to which we gave fuel and energy. With or without a peak it is actions and fantasy which count, not the mere result. This adventure has simply been postponed.”

K2
KARAKORUM / PAKISTAN

laus and I quickly decided to set off on an expedition to K2 “the mountain of mountains”. We decided on 25th April and a month and a half later we were already on our way. After a few bureaucratic ups and downs in Islamabad we very happily started trekking towards base camp extremely motivated. Once we reached base camp, we started acclimatizing straight away. The ascent up to Camp 1 was long, but I couldn’t wait to be immersed into the soul of this mountain. The nights spent up in the high camps were spent serenely.

“Klaus and I got on very well. We even enjoyed the long hours of waiting: we danced, we laughed, washed our clothes and made dumplings. Every morning we would eat a raw egg with sugar, to gain the necessary energy” reached camp 2 straight away. From there we moved forward towards Camp 3 and brought the tent with us for Camp 4 at 7300 meters. The summit seemed really close by, instead the ascent time was remarkably long. We set off at twenty past midnight, the last in line, but at 5.30am, just after sunrise, we were at the bottleneck where the traverse sets off under the serac, which is steep, narrow and almost always icy. We found other alpinists waiting there. As soon as it became possible, I managed to overtake almost everyone and follow my rhythm all the way to the top! What joy!

“I was so concentrated that I didn’t even wait for Klaus, because I just wanted to get to the top …I reached the highest point at 3 pm. From there I managed to appreciate the energy and experience my emotions, enjoy the view and awareness that I had reached the summit on my first attempt. Crazy.

It was a lot more important not to make mistakes during the descent to ABX (advanced base camp). Once we reached it, we realized we had made it! :-) Klaus and I finally hugged to celebrate our success: such total happiness!! Achieving one of my greatest dreams not only gave me an exceptional result but it gave me enormous motivation for future adventures!

THE GREAT CROSSING
150 KM ACROSS THE KARAKORUM/PAKISTAN
150KM ACROSS SNOW AND ICE AND THE ASCENT OF TWO UNCLIMBED PEAKS

The idea of the ski-trekking dates back to 2013, and with time the opportunity of making first ascents of unclimbed peaks came up. A dream that I had been harboring for quite some time, to reach a mountain peak which had never been climbed by anyone before.

“We set off in four for “The Great Crossing”, my father and I and two Austrian cameramen. On the 26th March 2013 we took the plane from Munich to Islamabad, where we prepared our sled with the minimum amount necessary, since we were the ones that had to do all the pulling, over the glaciers! In three days we reached Shimshal, the last place before absolutely nothing at all … On Easter Monday we walked towards the Braldu glacier. 6 days of breathtaking trekking and we reached the snow and the glacier”.

For the following 25 days we could only count on ourselves. It took a bit of time to get used to pulling the sled which weighed 70-80 kgs, and resisting through the difficult conditions, the crevasses, the falls and the difficulties in reaching the mountains due to the many seracs. After a first summit to acclimatize, with only 2 sleds we headed towards a side valley off the Braldu glacier, to tackle two first ascents near the Chinese border. Never ending crevasses welcomed us as well as an icy landscape. We walked a lot with crampons on and ice axes and we skied down the summit all the way to the foot of the mountains.

Then we headed towards Lupke la Pass to climb another two mountains. Unfortunately wind and ice finally forced us to head back. The following day we set off with bad weather towards Braldu Brakk (6200m). But we only reached the previous six thousand meter peak, because bad visibility and steep intermediate valleys required us to use all our strength to head back safe and sound to our camp. Another day of bad weather forced us to stop, but finally we climbed over the pass, getting closer to civilization. The descent was quite steep and impressive and after two days, passing by Latoks and the Orge, we reached the spectacular Snow Lake. The weather wasn’t any better here… Slowly the weather got out of hand and we had to start walking southwards, where our porters would have to come and pick us up. We set off for Askoli. Usually for this section a day is needed, but due to bad weather, it took us three. It was exactly when food started to run low that we met, a day before we expected, three of our porters. Immense joy! And a bit of sadness for the end of the trip… Another two days to reach Askoli, jeep and bus to Islamabad and then by plane back home.

“This has been my best expedition ever: almost a month far from civilization, not only one, but two first ascents! And all of this with my father. I experienced the most extreme solitude, experienced what it meant to ration food, and I learned how to move on unknown terrain reacting consequently, managing my strength and weaknesses. An experience which has made me more complete”.

WINTER EXPEDITION
NANGA PARBÀT / PAKISTAN

I reached Base Camp with only one climbing partner, Simone Moro, who is my great friend and an exceptional athlete, but we were immediately joined by two wonderful people: Alex Txikon and Ali Sadpara. We all got along well straight away. All four of us gave our best to make climbing Nanga a reality!

On our eightieth day of expedition after waiting a long time for favorable weather conditions we set off from Camp 4 with the aim of reaching the summit around noon. It was freezing. A start which right from the beginning proved itself to be very difficult for me: to have reached 6100 meters in only one night with hardly any acclimatization tested me fully. Although I was sick, I chose to tackle this last part of the challenge with determination!

Ready... go! 4 hours of climbing in the shade, with a perceived temperature of -58°. Then up, right up with only 70 meters from the summit, when I had to make one of the most difficult decisions of my life!

One hour of climbing separated me from success, exhausted from suffering, cold and fatigue I chose to give up the summit and go back down on my own, on my own two legs, allowing my three climbing partners to reach the summit, without putting my life and theirs in danger by causing them to slow down too much during the downhill section and return to camp. In the dark we would have risked losing our way and not finding the tents. Even the descent was not easy for me, I fell, and slipped down a long section without knowing how to stop, I really thought I was going to die… But luck, or the great mountain's Spirit, led me safely home!

Only now that the expedition has ended do I realize that all the difficulties we tackled have changed me deeply. I have become a new Tamara, more mature and more courageous. A Tamara who knows she made the right choice by giving up on the summit and thanking God for listening to her voice. A Tamara who looked death in the eye and is still alive, who felt the cold but now knows that she can deal with it… A Tamara who is starting to get to know people and who has understood that the right climbing partners and the support of a good team are fundamental in achieving any huge challenge!

Now I know with certainty, that my real home is not…at home, but there, amidst the highest mountains, in solitude and simplicity. Thanks! To all of those who have encouraged me, thought of me, helped and sponsored me. Maybe you don't know this, but you are helping me become, step by step, a person who is happier and more aware.

 The Photo Gallery

 

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We tally up the Pakistan’s most-visited attractions, and gathered the most recent data supplied by the attractions themselves or from government agencies, industry reports, and reputable media outlets. We defined “tourist attractions” as cultural and historical sites, natural landmarks, and officially designated spaces.