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    K2 The Price of Conquest

    K2 The Price of Conquest

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    Lacedelli doesn't mince word describing expedition leader Ardito Desio: "If Cassin had come, all the newspapers would have focused on him rather than Desio. ... Desio preferred those who agreed with him ... (Compagnoni) flattered Desio and vice versa. ... Desio carried on giving his daily orders, but for us it was like he didn’t exist. His orders were no good, they didn’t help us with our problems."

    Lacedelli blames Achille Compagnoni for changing Camp IX to the left of the planned location: "I believe he didn’t want Bonatti to reach us. ... It was just the two of us that had to make the final climb to the summit. ... It was dark and the traverse was really difficult. So I shouted to Bonatti, ‘Don’t come up, it’s too dangerous. Go back to Camp VIII, leave the bottles where you are’."

    Lacedelli confirms Bonatti’s timing that they probably reached the oxygen bottles left by Bonatti around 7:30 on the summit morning, and not at 5am as claimed in Desio's book. He disagrees with Bonatti that the oxygen did not run out: "The truth is that the oxygen ran out before the summit. ... So we decided to carry them to the top as a sort of proof that we had reached the summit. We also stayed roped together even though we didn’t need to any more."

    "So we linked arms and I said, ‘Together’. … We were so pleased. On the summit the view was astounding. ... I have always spoken well of Bonatti. I have always said that, without his sacrifice, the two of us would not have reached the summit."

    Lacedelli tells it like it is for the whole expedition from beginning to end. He finally clears up the disputes between Bonatti and Compagnoni and Desio. The photos are very good.


    • Language: English

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